Showing posts with label Cakes and Pies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cakes and Pies. Show all posts

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Old Fashioned Roast Pork Dinner


A few weeks ago, while going over one of my posts from a previous holiday season (Nana's Apple Pie) I began feeling more than a bit nostalgic. Not that it's at all unusual at certain times of the year, for folks to experience a mix of joyful anticipation for the time that we'll be spending with our loved ones, yet tinged with a sense of sadness and longing for the ones who are no longer here to celebrate with us.

But as my thoughts filled with the memories of early childhood Christmases, spent piling into the car after Christmas morning Mass and going straight to Nana's house (or "down home" as Daddy used to say), we'd usually find her busy in the kitchen, wearing one of her trademark pinafore style aprons, with faded red poinsettias or some Currier and Ives holiday print, that I'm sure had been given to her by one of the grandchildren some Christmas before. And she'd be preparing Christmas dinner - you know... the special kind of "dinner" that used to be eaten at 1:00 in the afternoon, on Sundays or other special occasions? And the meals were simple, really. They generally consisted of some kind of incredibly delicious roasted or braised meat with fried, mashed or scalloped potatoes and a vegetable or two, but as simple as they were, they were the most delicious Sunday dinners I can ever remember eating. Dessert (as well as the rest of the meal) was always made from scratch and was often some type of fruit pie, or a simple cake - and it was always just as memorable.

Sadly, I don't have her recipes to follow, but over the years I've worked out my own versions of several of them and I think I've come pretty darned close to what I remember from my childhood. I also think I can safely say that her roast pork was my favorite. Hmmm... come to think of it, I guess it would be a tie between the roast pork and chicken and biscuits. (and if all goes well, that'll be another post one of these days.) But, seeing as the title of this post is Old Fashioned Roast Pork Dinner, let's get on with it, shall we?


Old Fashioned Roast Pork Dinner
Serves 4 (with plenty of leftovers)
  • 5 Lb to 6 Lb Bone-In Pork Shoulder/Butt Roast
  • 4 to 6 Cloves Garlic, thinly sliced
  • Light Soy Sauce (as needed)
  • Light Olive or Vegetable Oil (as needed)
  • 2 Lg Yellow Onions, sliced into eighths
  • 4 Lg Carrots, washed and cut into two-inch lengths
  • 2 to 4 Lg Parsnips, washed and cut into two-inch lengths
  • 4 Stalks Celery, washed and cut into two-inch lengths
  • Kosher Salt
  • Fresh Ground Black Pepper
  • Favorite Seasoning Blend (optional)
  • 4 Tbls Butter, softened to room temperature (for gravy)
  • 4 Tbls All Purpose Flour (for gravy)
  • 2 Cups Chicken Stock (for gravy)
Preheat the oven to 375°F  If using convection, set the temperature at 350°F


In the '80s (when I first began to cook meals on a daily basis), the news media and the magazines, the cooking shows on TV and the pork industry itself, were all proclaiming pork as "the other white meat", so what you'd find highlighted or on sale in the pork section of the meat department, were mostly pork loin roasts, tenderloins and loin chops. The loin is a much more lean cut of pork and while it might be a bit more healthy, it lacks the rich flavor and the tender juicy meat that I remembered as a child at Sunday dinner.


So, when I started trying to replicate those memorable Sunday dinners for my own family, I'd pick up a pork loin roast at the store and roast it up quite nicely, but while those dinners weren't bad I could never quite understand why it was that my roast pork dinners just didn't come close to the flavor or the tenderness of Nana's. I don't know why or when it was exactly, but it finally dawned on me one day, that for all those years I'd been cooking the wrong cut of pork. That single revelation changed my roast pork dinners forever after.

You see, the cut that Nana had used for her roasts back in the day, was actually a bone-in pork shoulder or "butt" and that's a cut that is so much more tender and succulent - when it's been prepared the correct way. Now, when I want to take my taste buds for a stroll down memory lane, back to those Sunday dinners at Nana's house, I pick up a pork shoulder roast - and I've never looked back.


Start your prep work by peeling the garlic cloves. Depending on the sizes of the individual cloves, for this size roast, it took me about three medium and three of the small cloves. If there are any left when you're done, don't worry. As long as they haven't come in contact with the meat or your fingers after touching them, they can be used elsewhere in the recipe or sealed up in an airtight zip-top bag, with a pinch of salt and a touch of light olive oil and kept in the refrigerator for up to a week.


Next, slice each clove lengthwise, so that you have several little garlic "spears". You'll need these shortly, but you can set them aside for a minute.


As I always say, preparation is key when it comes to putting any good meal together, so you want to start prepping the roast by trimming a little bit of the fat from the top. Now that doesn't mean you should go overboard.

Fat equals flavor, my friends and we don't ever want to remove that flavor when we have the choice not to. It helps if your butcher at the grocery store is kind enough to leave a decent amount of the fat cap on the roast so that you can decide for yourself just how much you want to keep or remove. Just look or ask for a roast that hasn't been trimmed within an inch of its life - like the one in the photo above and then do your own "clean up" work at home. You'll find that with a nice sharp paring knife, this job is a breeze.


As you can see, there wasn't a super thick fat cap on this roast, so I was careful not to take too much off. If you're very ambitious, you can have a deep frying pan filled with 375° F oil ready to drop the trimmings into for a little chef's treat - pork rinds! Now, I'm not a huge fan of this snack and frankly, I'm also not that ambitious, so I just discarded mine. 🐖


I'm a bit obsessive when it comes to cross contamination - especially when dealing with pork (and poultry) products. I don't even like to use my plastic cutting boards, so I just lay out a few sheets of waxed or parchment paper to prep my roast.


Once you have that bit of fat removed, take that same knife and using its tip, make several small slits all over the roast, including the sides and bottom.


Be sure to make those slits in the areas where there's still fat left on the meat as well.


Now, start pressing one (or 2 if they're super thin) of the garlic spears into each of the slits in the meat.


Push them as far into the meat as you can because if there's a chunk of garlic that sticks too far out, it will burn during the roasting process and become bitter. That would transfer to the drippings and make a bitter garlicky gravy. A hint of it will show, as you'll see in the upcoming photos, but for the most part, it should lay as flat as possible. If any of them pop out quite a bit as you're handling the roast, just push them back in before putting the roast in the pan and in the oven.


We buy the "Light" or less sodium version of soy sauce because as I'm sure most of you know, the darker soy sauce not only has more salt, but it usually has a higher sugar content as well. Just by its nature, it's the type of product that will caramelize and/or reduce as long as a heat source is introduced, so I like to play it safe and not risk it burning during roasting.


The soy sauce helps to aid in the browning of the meat and it also adds flavor to both the roast and the pan drippings.


I didn't put a specific amount for the soy sauce in the ingredient list, because it's something you really have to eyeball based on the size of the roast. If I really had to put a quantity on it, I'd say I used about an eighth of a cup (2 tablespoons).


Gently massage the soy sauce all over the roast, turning it often to pick up any liquid that has run down onto your prep surface. Once you have it all rubbed in, set the roast aside, wash your hands and get ready to prep your vegetables.


I used onions, carrots, parsnips and celery the I just washed and cut up into large pieces. I make sure to keep them in large pieces so that they can be eaten as a side vegetable with the meal. You can eliminate the parsnips and double the carrots if you really want to, but I recommend trying them, even if you're not familiar with them because they add a very subtle bit of tanginess to perfectly balance out the sweetness of the carrots and onions.


Add two-thirds of the chopped vegetables to the bottom of the pot and drizzle on just enough light olive oil or vegetable oil to barely coat them.


Add a generous teaspoon of Kosher salt...


and about the same amount of freshly ground black pepper.


Give the vegetables a quick toss to incorporate the seasonings and coat the pieces with the oil.


Place the pork roast, fat side up, directly on top of the vegetables because they'll serve two purposes. They provide added flavor to the pan drippings and they act as a natural "rack" for the meat.


If there is any of the soy sauce left on your prep surface pour that right in with everything. Want not, waste not. (Or is it the other way around? I never remember how that goes. lol)


Now sprinkle a bit more Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper onto the meat.


I know that the soy sauce has some sodium in it, but it really is a good sized piece of meat we're seasoning here and it can take the little bit of extra salt.


This last seasoning is optional, simply because it's not available just anyplace. It's a local product that I've shown here in my recipe posts many times. I use it in all sorts of dishes, from marinara sauce to soups and stews, in casseroles and on all types of meats. I even season my long cooking Jasmati rice with it. I'm obsessed with the flavor it provides to anything I put it in/on. You can certainly omit it, but if you want to try this amazing stuff out for yourself, you can **order it HERE.

(**I am not affiliated with, or sponsored by, Northeast Corner Herb Farm. I just happen to love their products and I feel that it never hurts to throw a little love in the direction of some of my area's local businesses. Plus, it really is that good!)


Add the final third of the veggies into the pot, letting some fall on top of the meat. This step might seem a bit strange, but I've found over time that it has its merits. The breakdown of the vegetables as they cook, provide liquid and that liquid acts as a kind of super flavored basting sauce for the meat.


Add a bit more light oil. (a teaspoon or two)


Then drizzle the same amount of soy sauce over the top. Adding flavors in stages is a good thing, my friends!


Place the uncovered pan/pot in the lower third of your preheated oven and roast it for 30 minutes at 375°F. Then turn the temperature down to 325°F and continue to roast for another 2 and one-half hours. (you'll want an internal temperature of 155° to 160° using an instant-read thermometer)

Remove the roast from the pan and place it on a cutting board or serving platter. Cover the meat loosely with foil and allow it to rest for about 15 minutes while you make the gravy. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon to a bowl or serving plate and cover them tightly to keep warm.

For The Gravy

I'm sorry that I don't have photos of the beginning of the gravy process, but the Hubbs made the gravy this particular night and he started when I was in another room. (You'd think by now, he'd know to wait for the photos, right? HaHa!)

There should be a fair amount of pan drippings/liquid left in the bottom of the pan when you're roasting a cut of meat like this. Some of it will be a bit of the fat that rendered out of the roast while cooking. The rest will be the natural juices from the meat and the vegetables. If it looks like there's more fat than pan juices, you'll want to skim off the excess fat. It will usually separate by itself as the pan sits for a few minutes and the drippings cool ever so slightly. You'll be able to see the difference.



If you have a handy dandy fat separator like the one above (this is what we have) you can use that. If using the fat separator, you'll get better results if you pour half of your chicken broth/stock into the pan and stir it well first. Then, pour all of the liquid into the separator and allow it to do its magic.

I just happened to find a short video using our exact separator that shows you what I mean.



Once you have the pan juices separated, pour them back into the roasting pan leaving the fat behind, add in your stock/remaining stock and place the pan onto the stovetop over medium-high heat. Bring to a gentle boil while gently scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen up any brown bits (fond). Any larger pieces can be strained and removed later if you like, but I find that most all of the fond melts right down and what is left over doesn't hurt the gravy at all.


In a separate bowl, add in your four tablespoons of softened butter and four tablespoons of all-purpose flour. Using a fork or a small sturdy whisk, combine the butter and flour thoroughly to form a thick paste. This is called a beurre manie in culinary terms and we've used it as one of our go-to methods for making gravy for years. (the other method is to make a roux in the pan with the butter - or some of the fat from the pan drippings - and flour)


As the liquid in the pan simmers, slowly whisk in small amounts of the butter/flour paste until your mixture is smooth. 


Continue adding small amounts and stirring, until you've reached the desired consistency. Any leftover butter and flour mixture can be placed onto some waxed paper, rolled up tightly and put into a zip-top bag and kept in the freezer for use another time. As long as it's kept airtight, it should last in the freezer for up to three months.


You want the gravy to leave a clean trail across the back of a spoon when you swipe your finger across/through it.


Uncover the meat and with a sharp chef's knife or meat carving knife, slice the pork into approximately 1/4 inch slices working around the bone when you get to those areas. You can put the slices directly on each person's plate or onto a serving platter with the pan vegetables placed around it for presentation.


Serve along with your vegetables from the pan, potatoes of your choice (in our house, it has to be mashed) and the delicious pork gravy and you have an amazing old fashioned roast pork dinner for your family, or even for a dinner party with friends.

And don't toss that bone out! Believe it or not, you can make an excellent stock with these bones and it can be used in several recipes, like baked beans, Southern-style greens, chili and a whole host of other dishes. It can even be saved for the next roast pork dinner and used for the gravy in place of the chicken stock. Just place it in airtight containers and freeze. It should keep for up to six months.



Enjoy!

Mary


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Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Nana's Apple Pie (The Last Apple Pie Recipe You'll Ever Need!)



There's a bit of a story behind the title of this post. You certainly don't have to read it. You can skip on ahead to the recipe instead and that's perfectly fine with me. You see, the "recipe" for this pie is not technically my own. It is my tried and tested interpretation of how I believe my grandmother (aka, Nana) made her apple pies. So, if you've decided that you want to learn the "behind the scenes" about the title of this post, then please read on.

My Nana (my dad's mom) made the best apple pie I've ever tasted. Honestly, there wasn't much that I can recall, that she didn't cook well. Her chicken and biscuits was to die for and her roast pork dinner with all of the "fixins", was just heavenly. Sadly, she was already quite elderly and had pretty much stopped making that type of "Sunday dinner" style food, by the time I was old enough to really take an interest in cooking. Although I never had the opportunity to sit in her kitchen and watch as she prepared those incredible meals, I did learn quite a bit from listening to my mother, aunts and cousins through the years, when they'd talk about what they had learned from her.

For instance... when I make chicken and dumplings, I cook my chicken the same way that Nana did when she made chicken and biscuits. I "fricassee" it, which is really just a fancy way of saying that I cook it low and slow. Instead of boiling it in water or broth, I pan fry or saute it over a medium low flame, until it's a rich (and tender) deep golden brown. Now, this method might take a little longer, but believe me... it's worth every second of any extra time that it takes and I honestly couldn't imagine cooking it any other way.

OK, what does chicken fricassee have to do with apple pie, you ask? Well, it's not so much about the dishes... it's about the woman who prepared them and it's about her cooking philosophy. She didn't use recipes and she didn't follow trends. She was the wife and mother of hard working, dairy farming men and she cooked the food that she knew would make her husband and three sons happy. Food that would keep them nourished and their stomachs full, as they worked all day and well into the night, to keep the family farm running. She cooked what they loved ...with love.

Her apple pie was no exception. My grandfather, my dad and his brothers liked their pie sweet and with lots of cinnamon and spices. Now, my Mom - God rest her - wasn't much of a baker, so she usually bought the "par-baked" Mrs. Smith's pies from the grocery store that you finished baking before serving. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with doing that.

But... (you knew that but was coming, right?) My Dad was a very picky eater. He was very much used to the way his mother cooked and I know he would have liked to see my mother follow in her mother-in-law's footsteps. He never openly shared his opinion about the store bought pies. He loved my mom and always appreciated what she did to keep the household running. He just wasn't one to openly criticize anyone. He did, however, have a, ahem... subtle way of making his feelings known about the pie.

He'd quietly go to the cupboard and get the sugar bowl and the cinnamon shaker. Then, when he got back to the table, he'd gently lift the top crust on the slice of pie on his plate and he'd sprinkle liberal amounts of both, all over the filling inside. When he was satisfied with the amount that he'd "enhanced" the pie's sweetness and the cinnamon content, he'd place the crust back on top and start eating his dessert. Of course my mother saw it, but she never got angry or upset about it. She never said a word at all. She knew that the last thing my Dad ever wanted to do was hurt her feelings. So, she'd just turn a blind eye and act as if nothing had happened and we'd all go on, happily eating our pie.

Anyone who knows me well, is aware that I was and always will be a bona fide, card carrying member of the DGS (Daddy's Girl Society). My Dad was (and still is) my hero, so when I started cooking in my early teens, the person who's praise I sought out the most and who I tried my hardest to make happy with the food that I cooked, was my Dad. So naturally, when I took on the challenge of making my first apple pie, I remembered that sugar bowl and cinnamon shaker and I set out to make an apple pie that my Dad would never need to quietly "doctor" up... ever again. What follows is the result of that mission - **with one little change.

I hope that you enjoy it, as much as he always did. :)



Nana's Apple Pie
(makes two 9 inch pies)
  • 10 Large Cortland, McIntosh or Empire Apples (I use a mixture)
  • 1 & 1/2 Cups Granulated Sugar (yes, that's the right amount)
  • 1 & 1/2 Tbls Ground Cinnamon (yes, that's right too!)
  • 1/2 Tsp Ground Allspice
  • 1/4 Tsp Ground Ginger
  • 1/4 Tsp Grated Nutmeg (fresh, if you have it)
  • 1/8 Tsp Ground Cloves
  • 4 Tbls Butter, (one half stick - sliced/cubed into eighths)
  • 2 Pkgs of 2-count refrigerated pie crusts** (or your own homemade)
** When I have the time, I will make my own pie crust dough. But let's face it... at Thanksgiving time, I have so many other dishes to prepare, that I need every extra second I can spare. And after several years of stressing over it, I eventually turned to the refrigerated pie crusts. (sorry, Nana!) I always use the brand shown in the ingredients photo above, so I can't vouch for any of the others out there. But I can say that this one comes pretty darned close to the real deal and to be honest, I've never had a single complaint. Not even from my very picky, very vocal husband!

If you'd like to make your own pie crust, I use (and highly recommend) Martha Stewart's Pate Brisee recipe. It's tender and flaky and it's easy to make! You can find it by clicking HERE! Just remember that you'll need to double the recipe for two 9" double crust pies.


Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F.

OK, let's begin! Wash and peel your apples and set them aside. I always peel all of the apples first and then core and slice them. Once I get started, I'm pretty quick with this part of the process, but if you end up with a bit of oxidation (the browning that occurs when peeled apples are exposed to the air) it won't matter in the finished pies. You'll never see it once the cinnamon and other spices are added to the filling and the apples cook down in the pie.

I can't recall ever making apple pies with a single type of apple. I like to use a mixture of two, or even three, different apple varieties. We have dozens and dozens of wonderful orchards here in the Northeast and the predominant apple varieties that you'll find at roadside stands and in grocery stores here in upstate NY are generally Cortland, McIntosh and Empire, so it's usually a combination of those apples.


What you want are apples that are sweet, juicy and will cook down easily. Now, you don't want to end up with applesauce in your pie, (there is actually such a thing though) but if there's anything that drives me nuts, it's an apple pie with undercooked or chewy apples in it. I understand that this is a personal preference and you might like to have a bit of bite left to the apples in your finished pie, but if you want to recreate this exact recipe, I'd recommend you use a combination of the apple varieties that I mentioned in this post.

If you can't find these particular varieties where you live, just ask a local produce professional which apple varieties are native to your area and would be best for making pies and they'll let you know just what to look for.


I start by making four cuts around the perimeter of the apple, getting as close as I can to the core, without picking up bits of the seeds or hard membrane that exists around it. You'll know if you've cut too close to the core because you'll see and feel the rigid membrane when you lightly run your finger over the cut side. If you do feel it, just take a very sharp knife and scrape the area, until you no longer feel it there. It shouldn't take much.


After you have the "meat" of the apple off, you can either toss the cores in your compost pile or give them to someone who has one. Or, you can put them in your freezer in zip-top bags to be used at a later time to make fragrant "simmer-pots" that will make your house smell like you've been baking, even when you don't have time! The aroma of apples, mixed with whole spices and maybe a bit of citrus peel, placed in a pot of barely simmering water on your stove top, can be a lovely thing to experience throughout the Fall and Winter seasons! Ahhhh...


When the apple is peeled and the larger pieces removed, lay those pieces, cut side down, on your cutting board and slice them into 1/4 to 1/2 inch slices. They don't have to match exactly. You just want to keep them all relatively close to the same thickness.


Once all of the apples are sliced, place them in a large mixing bowl that has plenty of room to stir them without the apples flying out of the bowl. lol

*Before adding the sugar and spices to your apples, prepare your pie plates by adding the bottom crusts to each one, so they'll be all ready for the filling and the top crusts.*


Add your sugar, cinnamon, allspice, ginger and cloves and give it all a good toss, making sure that all of the apple slices are well coated with the mixture.





Yes... I really do use that much cinnamon! Trust me.... it makes a wonderful pie!




When the spices are stirred in, sprinkle your AP flour over the top as evenly as you can. I don't add the flour with the sugar and spices because I find it has a tendency to clump up that way. Trust me... you do not want any big chunks of dry flour in your pies.



Add the pinch of salt (1/4 tsp?) and stir it all again to incorporate the flour and salt evenly. You'll find as you're stirring, that the apples will begin to exude some of their juice. This is a good thing. A small amount of juice, mixed with the sugar and spices and the flour, will help the apples cook down and will create a nice thick coating of sweet, cinnamon-y goodness throughout your pies.

On the flip-side, too much juice can result in a very thin runny filling that will pool up in the pan when you cut it later for serving - plus it can make the crust soggy. Now, that just isn't good pie. The key to making sure this doesn't happen, is to not let the mixture sit for too long before adding the filling to the pans. Not more than a couple of minutes, really.


Quickly (and as evenly as possible) pour your apples into your two prepared pie plates, mounding the filling ever so slightly, then dot the tops of each pie with 1/2 each of the butter slices/cubes.



With the refrigerated crusts, there's usually just enough extra that hangs over a 9" pie plate for me to tuck the top crust underneath the bottom and then pinch them gently together to seal it all up.


I then use my left thumb, placed in between my right thumb and index finger to flute the edges.

(I couldn't hold a camera and do this at the same time, so in case you've never done this before, I found the photo below at Eating Well's website. It's a single crust pie, but it's the same technique. Mine never looks quite this perfect, but remember... practice doesn't always make perfect and that's OK! Hope it helps!)

Photo Source: Eating Well


Then, using a sharp knife, I poke a hole in the center and make 4 slices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, starting about 1/2 inch from the center hole and ending about 1/2 inch from the fluted edge. I then sometimes make shorter slits in between those. This is functional (by letting excess steam escape from the  filling) and it's also decorative.


Place the pies in your 425 degree preheated oven for 30 to 35 minutes. I always put a sheet pan lined with foil on the bottom rack, to catch any juices that bubble over. Trust me... apple pie spillover is full of sugar and can be pretty nasty!


(Please excuse my very dirty oven - these photos were from last Thanksgiving and there had been 2 massive & very spattery - is that a word? - turkeys cooked in them just a short time before.)



Allow the pies to cool for at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving. This will allow the filling to set up a bit so that it doesn't run out all over the place when you cut a slice.


Slice up your pie as needed and serve on it's own - or with your favorite apple pie topping. Some like whipped cream, some like a big slice of cheddar cheese. Our absolute must around here is, hands down, a big scoop of vanilla ice cream!


Enjoy!

Mary

Don't Forget To Follow Me On Social Media! I Post Blog Updates, Ideas For Kitchen "How To's", Restaurant Recommendations And Reviews And Always Lots Of Photos!




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