Showing posts with label Potatoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Potatoes. Show all posts

Friday, December 2, 2016

Creamy New England Clam Chowder


Who doesn't love a good hearty soup when the colder temperatures in the Fall and Winter months set in? In my opinion, there's nothing like it to warm you up inside, when the damp and the cold are chilling you right through to the bone. When you live in some Northern areas of the country, even Spring can be a very unpredictable season and we certainly have our share rainy periods where the dampness can make a 55 degree (Fahrenheit) day seem bone chilling as well.

Being from the Northeastern part of New York State and only a 30 minute drive from the Vermont border, the folks here in my neck of the woods have always considered ourselves to be New Englanders, so it just stands to reason that one of our family's favorite soups has always been New England Clam Chowder. And why not? It has everything you could want in a 'warm your belly and your soul' kind of way. It has butter, rich cream, potatoes, onions and just the right amount of savory herbs, like thyme. And let's not forget the true stars of the show - those sweet, tender clams. Oh, and around here, it just wouldn't be complete without a generous sprinkling of crispy, smokey, crumbled bacon to top it all off.


Even after years of eating (and thoroughly enjoying) the clam chowder at home and at restaurants all over the Northeastern coast, I realized on a weekend trip to Boston - way back in the early eighties, that I hadn't really ever had the pleasure of what I believe to be the ultimate "chowdah" experience.

I refer to it as an experience because, well... that's the best way that I can think of to describe the unique and somewhat quirky atmosphere at the famous (or maybe I should say "infamous") Durgin Park Restaurant in the Faneuil Hall Marketplace in Boston, Massachusetts.

To this day, I stand firm in my belief that it is the best clam chowder (yes, that includes my own) that I have ever eaten. Now, I feel that it's important for me to explain that the chowder is not the menu item that the restaurant is most famous for, (that would be their "Boston Baked Beans") but, that being said and based on who you happen to ask, the answer to that question could be as varied as the the snowflakes that fall all around me each Winter. And now, after dozens of tweaks to my own recipe over the years, I feel like this is as close as it gets to Durgin Park's famous New England Clam Chowder.

This rich, creamy chowder can be made on a weeknight because the ingredients are simple and if you're an enthusiastic home cook or "foodie", you'll most likely already have the majority of what you need in your pantry and fridge. (IMHO if they're not - they should be) At the very least, they're all ingredients that you can easily find at most grocery chains across the country - so go on out and get you some,'K? ðŸ˜‰


Creamy New England Clam Chowder
(Serves a crowd. Approx 3 & 1/2 Quarts/18 Cups)
  • 3 8oz Bottles Clam Juice + Juice From The Canned Clams
  • 1 8oz Bottle of Clam Juice (optional/if needed)   
  • 4 6.5oz to 7oz Cans Chopped Clams, liquid reserved
  • 1 Qt Half & Half
  • 1 Pint Heavy Cream
  • 2 8oz Bricks Cream Cheese
  • 1 12oz Pkg Center Cut Bacon, chopped
  • 2 Lg Russet Potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 1 Lg Yellow Onion, peeled and diced
  • 1 Tsp Thyme Leaves (heaping)
  • 1 & 1/2 Tsp Onion Powder
  • 1 Tsp Celery Salt
  • 2 Tsp Kosher Salt
  • 1 Tsp Freshly Ground Black Pepper

First, dice your onion, peel and cube your potatoes and chop your bacon. Set these all aside in separate bowls.

As anyone who's been cooking for a long time will tell you... Always do your "prep work" first and things will go a heck of a lot faster when it's time to put it all together!


A good sharp peeler, just like a good sharp knife, can save you time and save you from having to raid your band-aid stash. If yours is old and dull, toss it into the trash and pick up a new one. They're generally not very expensive and a decently made peeler can easily be found in any large grocery store these days.



Try to keep the size of your potato cubes relatively the same. They don't have to be perfect, but you want them to be close so they'll cook as evenly as possible. You can keep your cubed potatoes in a bowl of very cold water, while waiting to add them to the pot. This will keep hem from oxidizing and turning brown. Just drain them well and blot them a bit with clean paper towels before adding them.


Bacon will slice much more easily if it's really cold, or even better yet, a little bit frozen. A really sharp knife is essential too, of course.


Speaking of that... I know that I mention this pretty frequently, but I can't stress enough how important it is to keep your knives as sharp as you can. Just like the vegetable peeler mentioned above, a dull knife is much more dangerous than a sharp one. It's so worth the initial investment to purchase a decent 10" Chef's knife, a 7" or 8" Santuko blade and at least one 4" to 5" paring knife. Also, look for knife blades that are made from carbon steel, since they hold an edge better and can be sharpened and honed easily at home in order to keep that edge.


Pre-heat a heavy bottomed large stock or pasta pot over medium to medium high, for roughly 60 to 90 seconds. You don't ever want to heat a dry metal pan to the point where it's literally "smoking" hot, but you do want it to be hot enough to hear that lovely sizzling sound as soon as the bacon hits the pan. (If you don't have a pot that has a solid heavy bottom, you might want to add a teaspoon of a light olive, or vegetable oil to the cold pan and swirl it around enough to coat the bottom in order to prevent sticking)


Add the chopped bacon to the pot and cook until it's nice and crispy, stirring or turning the pieces frequently. (approx 4 to 6 minutes)


Once the bacon is all golden brown and crispy, remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with a couple of sheets of paper towel to drain. Set it aside.


If there's more than a healthy tablespoon (give or take) of bacon grease left in the pan, remove any excess and dispose of it - OR - store it for future use.

(I strain mine into - and save it in - a Ball pint jar in the fridge, to use when I'm making homefries, frying eggs, sweating a mirepoix for stocks, soups & sauces, etc. Let's just say that bacon grease has a plethora of other uses where it can add amazing flavor to a finished dish!)


Add the onions to the reserved bacon grease and turn the heat down to medium (if it isn't there already). Cook them, stirring often, until they begin to soften and are pretty much translucent. They'll probably take on a browned or caramelized appearance pretty quickly if there's a fair amount of browned bits (fond) left in the bottom of the pan from cooking the bacon - and that's a very good thing.



Once the onions are softened, add in the cubed potatoes and give it all a good stir to incorporate everything. If, at this point, your mixture seems like it's starting to stick to the bottom of the pan, you can add a little bit of vegetable or light olive oil - or that bacon grease, if you've saved it!

You only need to saute the potatoes and onions for about 5 minutes, because they're going to cook through completely in the liquids that will be added.


I usually won't shake bottled clam juice if I see what looks like darker or sand-like deposits that have settled at the bottom. There will almost always be at least some amount of sediment in bottled clam juice. As long as the residue is a white-ish gray color and isn't gritty or sandy looking, then go ahead a give it a shake. That is just an accumulation of fine particulates from the meat of the clam, left over from the shucking process.


Even if you make it a point to buy only the most expensive brand(s) of bottled clam juice, you're going to get a bottle here and there that has some amount of sediment in the bottom. It's just the nature of the beast, if you will. Clams spend the majority of their lives buried in the sand and it just stands to reason that at least some of that sand is going to stick around, even after they've been through the processing plant.

Of course, you could be really ambitious by going out to your local fishmonger, buying a bushel of whole clams and shucking them yourself. (being careful to save all of the liquor that comes out during the process) But keep in mind that even those clams will need to be soaked and rinsed, to make sure the majority of the sand is expelled. Then you'll need to make clam stock or broth, to take the place of the bottled clam juice.

As you know, I'm all for cooking from scratch... but this is meant to be an easy, pot of hearty soup that you can throw together on a weeknight. So let's get back to it, shall we?


Next, pour in the three bottles of clam juice, being careful to pour slowly and making sure to try and leave any of the sandy looking residue in the bottle. If a tiny bit gets into the pot, it's not the end of the world. As my dear old mother used to say, "You've gotta eat a peck of dirt before you die." I'm not really sure who came up with that quote, but I don't know if I want to learn the reasoning behind it. LOL


If you don't have enough to cover the potatoes, add a fourth bottle of clam juice (mentioned above as optional in the ingredient list). If you don't need it and you haven't opened it, you can store it in your pantry or cupboard until the "sell by" or "best by" date on the bottle.

Allow the broth to come up to a simmer.


I was at my daughter's house when I made this particular batch of chowder and she has a glass topped stove, so I didn't worry much about the heat. But, if I'm making this (or any other "dairy heavy" soup) on my gas cook top at home, I'll use one of those metal ring diffusers once the dairy has been added.


Once the soup has simmered for a minute or two, add your quart of half & half...


Your seasonings...




And your reserved clam "liquor" from the cans, *after straining if necessary.


*I find that the "Snow's/Bumblebee" brand is usually pretty good about making sure that there's not much sediment (if any) in their canned clams, but I have used other brands in the past when I couldn't find these and found that there was a fair amount of grit in each can. If you do happen to find a bit of sand or grit, you don't have to worry. As I mentioned re: the bottled juice, it's a perfectly natural thing for clams to have a bit of sand or grit in the shells. Some companies just do a better job at straining them before packaging than others. Just use a fine mesh strainer, lined with a bit of cheesecloth, if needed.

(I do not work for Snow's/Bumblebee and this is not a sponsored post. Any thoughts or comments about the quality of their products, are my personal opinion.)


Bring the chowder back up to a low simmer and continue to cook it at that same low temperature until the potatoes are just fork tender, stirring occasionally.


You want the potatoes to be tender, but be careful not to overcook them. You can see in the photo above that the potato cubes are still intact at this point and that is important because there's still a little bit more cooking time ahead.


Once the potatoes are just tender, add in your softened cream cheese, one brick at a time, stirring until the first one has melted before adding the second. You can cut the cream cheese up into cubes, but to be honest, I've found that as long as it's at room temperature, it will blend in just as quickly either way.


At first, it's probably going to look a bit lumpy and separated and you're going to wonder if you've made a mistake along the way, but trust me... every bit of it will dissolve and the soup will become a nice cohesive mixture.


The only "lumps" at this point, should be the potatoes.


Once all of the cream cheese has melted, add in your heavy cream and stir well.


Bring the chowder back up to a simmer and once you've reached that point, you can add in the drained clams. Again, you don't want cream soups to come up to a full boil. This can cause them to separate and become a bit of a mess. It can also cause the dairy products to scorch and that will definitely give it a "burnt" flavor.


When the chowder has simmered for another 5 or 10 minutes, it's time to serve! Remember - the clams don't really need to cook. You're just making sure that they're heated through. I always use chopped or minced clams in my chowder, but you could use the whole baby clams if you'd like to. I just find that there are fewer clams in the cans, ounce for ounce, and you tend to get more bang for your buck with the chopped/minced variety.


Make sure to give it a taste to check for seasoning before serving and if needed, add a bit more salt & pepper to taste. It's best to turn the stove off before serving because you don't want what's left in the pot to reduce too much further, or for the clams to get tough. Just slap the lid on the pot to keep it warm for anyone who might come back for seconds. (Around our house, they usually do!)


All you really need to make this creamy chowder a meal (at least in our house) is a big tossed green salad and a loaf of crusty bread and everyone will be as happy as a clam. (I know.... that really was pretty lame, but sometimes, I just can't help myself. I'm a total cornball! LOL) Oh, and don't forget to serve the crispy bacon, for folks to sprinkle on top of the chowder and/or the salad!


When I'm keeping things super casual, I just lay everything out buffet style and let people serve themselves. But if you're using this soup as a starter for a nice dinner party, you can certainly dish it up into smaller bowls and serve it to each person at the table. Just add a sprinkling of fresh parsley and a few pieces of the crumbled bacon on top of each bowl to make it look a bit more "up-scale". :)




Enjoy!

Mary


Don't Forget To Follow Me On Social Media! I Post Blog Updates, Ideas For Kitchen "How To's", Restaurant Recommendations And Reviews And Always Lots Of Photos!




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Sunday, December 20, 2015

Filet Mignon with (homemade) Bernaise Sauce



If you're a true-blue red meat eater, then you'll probably agree that the very best cut in the butcher's case, is the Filet - or as it's also known - the Filet Mignon. When you find it on the menu in restaurants that tend to be known for their rendition of this delectable piece of beef, there can be some confusion about the name they use. Because the filet comes from what's referred to as the tenderloin section of the cow, the name given to the cut is usually determined by either the weight/size of the cut and/or the area of the tenderloin that the steak happens to be cut from. This can also vary from one country to another, but since I'm located in the US, I'll go with that one for demonstration purposes.

*Tip: If you do a search on the web for "beef cuts diagram (insert your country of choice)" you can easily find a diagram and an explanation of how beef cuts are determined in that particular country.



You can find a detailed explanation of the different cuts used in the US, HERE.


Source: Ask The Meatman
The above diagram shows how a whole tenderloin of beef is generally cut into different usable portions. (well... it's all usable, of course) So, this should help to explain why some menus might offer up a tournado, as opposed to a filet or a filet mignon, or why there might be a dish that highlights just the tenderloin tips. In the end, they are all parts of the same main cut of beef. (and of course, they're all delicious!) Now let's get on with the recipes, shall we?

This recipe is for 2 people, but it's the same method of prep and cooking if you're feeding 8. In all honesty, if the Hubbs and I are going to be doing that, we'll roast the whole tenderloin. The next time we do, I'll be sure to post it here on the blog.

The recipe for the Lyonnaise Potatoes that I served with this meal can be found HERE. I'll also include how I prepare the green beans at the end of this post.

Pan Seared or Grilled Filet Mignon
(Sauce Bearnaise Recipe To Follow)
  • 2 Filets, cut 1 & 3/4 to 2 inches thick, or approx 8 oz each
  • Kosher Salt
  • Fresh Ground Black Pepper
  • Vegetable or Light Olive Oil
1. Remove the filets from the refrigerator about 20 to 30 minutes before cooking, in order to bring it closer to room temperature. Throwing an ice-cold piece of any kind of meat onto a hot cooking surface will cause the meat to seize up from the shock of the transition and this will significantly reduce the overall tenderness of the finished product.


2. Once the filet has reached room temperature, season it liberally on all sides with the kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Now, you might be tempted to add some kind of steak seasoning or marinade at this point. Please don't! Why is that, you ask?

Well, if we were cooking a less expensive cut of beef, like say... london broil, then that would be just fine. In fact, it would actually be a good idea. But, in all seriousness, why would you ever want to add a bunch of different flavors, that are only going to compete or (even worse) mask the true flavor of a glorious piece of beef like filet mignon? Besides, we'll have the luscious bearnaise to "complement" the beef when it's served and that's all you could possibly want or need in this situation.


3. If you are going to grill this outside on your gas or charcoal grill, you'll want to start the heating method, around the same time that you take the beef out of the fridge. With either type of grill, you'll want to have one area where you can use direct heat and another that you can move the meat to an indirect cooking space.

3b. In our case, we cooked this in the house, because it was the dead of Winter here in the Northeast. We're just not that big on cooking outdoors in 10° F temperatures on a deck that we'd have to shovel a path through knee-deep snow, just to get to the grill. Ha!


4. When cooking the filet indoors, the first thing you need to do is to preheat your oven to 400° F. Once the oven is preheated, place a heavy skillet or grill pan on your cooktop and heat it up to just below the smoking point. (That's pretty hot, but it's necessary to sear the meat well.) It helps to have an outside vented fan, or to at least be close to a window or door that you can open a crack to keep any smoke due to searing the meat, from setting off your smoke detector. (If you can reach it easily enough, you might want to temporarily disconnect it, if possible. Just don't forget to reconnect it, as soon as you're done searing!!)


5. (Only after it's heated) Brush a thin layer of vegetable or light olive oil over the surface of your pan. Filet is basically a very lean cut of beef and while you don't want to add a lot of fat to it, you do want to put just a thin barrier of oil between the meat and the very hot pan in order to keep it from charring too much or too quickly. The searing process is going to form a lovely brown crust on the meat as the juices caramelize while it cooks.

5b. So... that being said, using a pair of tongs, place the steaks in the pan. Even though you'll be tempted to turn the steaks in just a minute or two, allow them to cook on the first side for about 3 minutes, before touching them again. This is the start to that lovely brown crust that you know and love, on the steaks that you get at the high-end steakhouses. You'll find that this crust will allow the meat to release effortlessly from the pan. If it's stuck, it's not quite ready to turn. Repeat this process for about 30 seconds on all sides.

*Tip: (never use a fork when cooking meat, because piercing it will let all of the wonderful juices run out into the pan and not stay inside the meat where we want them.)


6. Once the steaks are all seared, place the pan in your preheated oven for about 5 minutes for medium rare (130° F to 135° F) or 6 minutes for medium (135° F to 140° F degrees).

Now, the last thing I want to do is offend any of my wonderful friends and readers, but if you want your steaks any more well done than that, you're on you're own. My whole life, I've been a medium rare kinda gal and the Hubbs is the same. The only time you'll ever see either of us order our beef cooked medium, is when we are ordering a hamburger. Medium well or (heaven forbid!) well done, especially when you're dealing with an amazing cut of beef like this, is pure sacrilege! Since it is Valentines Day weekend, for those who insist on cooking the meat further, I will at least give you THIS LINK, so that you can gauge the proper time and temperature.


7. When your particular cooking time is up, remove the pan from the oven and cover the steaks loosely with some aluminum foil. As is true with all meats, there will be a bit of carryover cooking during this time, so if you really like your steaks more on the rare side, you might want to take them out a minute or two earlier.

You can use an instant read thermometer if you wish, but we don't like piercing the meat at this point, because we want to keep every bit of juice in there that we can. Using one of those on a whole roast beef or chicken is one thing, but on a delicate steak like this... we'd just as soon go by our gut. (and past experience!)

Now... On to the sauce!


Sauce Bearnaise is our favorite of all of the classic French sauces ever created! I used to think it was something that only a classically trained chef could possibly achieve. That is until one night several years ago when I finally gathered up the nerve to ask the owner (and wife to the chef) of our most favorite of restaurants, if her husband could possibly share his recipe with us. In her lovely French accent, she asked me to wait just a moment and she would go ask. The sheer anticipation had me both giddy and terrified at the same time. After all, we'd been celebrating our most special occasions at this restaurant for many, many years and I certainly didn't want to anger the chef!

Luckily, my fears were completely abated, when she appeared back at our table with a small piece of paper in her hand. Yes, you guessed correctly! It was his recipe for Sauce Bearnaise! And I've been happily and proudly making it ever since! This wonderful man has since passed away, but his wife and children continue to run this amazing French bistro style restaurant that has served it's delectable food to many a celebrity, après races at the Saratoga Thoroughbred Race Course over the years. And I am now about to share one of my most very prized culinary possessions with all of you!

Sauce Bearnaise
(Serves 4 to 6 people)
  • 1 Lg Shallot, finely minced (or 2 small)
  • 3 Tbls Fresh Tarragon, chopped (heaping)
  • 1/4 Cup Champagne or Tarragon Vinegar
  • 3 Lg Egg Yolks
  • 2 Sticks (8oz each) Butter, cut into 5 pieces each
OK... So, this is not a low fat sauce, but remember that each person is only going to be using a couple of tablespoons in total. It's not something that you're going to eat every day of the week. (although once you've tasted it, you might want to. lol)



1. Finely mince the shallot(s) and chop the tarragon. I recommend that you do your best to get your hands on some fresh tarragon because in this recipe I truly believe that it does make a difference, but you can use dried tarragon if that's all you can find or have on hand. Just be sure to use only half of the amount that you would use of the fresh herb. As a rule, dried herbs are generally about twice as potent as fresh.


Most of the major chain supermarkets and stores like Walmart Super Centers carry these small packets of fresh herbs in their produce departments.


2. In a small heavy bottomed saucepan, add your vinegar and shallots and bring them up to a simmer. Reduce by about half. You don't want it to boil too rapidly, because the reduction could happen very quickly and that could easily leave you with less liquid than you need. The mixture should be slightly thicker, or maybe a better description would be a little bit syrupy.


3. Once this is reduced, add in your tarragon and stir well to combine.


4. Separate your three eggs and place the yolks in a small bowl.


5. Taking the pot off the heat for a moment and with a wire whisk in your hand, carefully add one egg yolk at a time to the mixture and whisk it in completely before adding the next one.


6. You'll notice that the mixture is getting a little thicker with each addition. Once all three are whisked in, turn the heat down as low as it can go and place the pot back on the burner.


7. Begin adding the butter, one pat or piece at a time, whisking the entire time, until both sticks are fully incorporated. You'll notice that the sauce is going to keep getting creamier and a lighter yellow color as you go along.


8. Once you've finished adding the butter, season the sauce with about 1/2 teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of fresh black pepper and serve right away.

If you can't serve the sauce immediately, it's important to keep it warm, while not scorching it, drying it out, or having it separate on you. This is the part about making homemade Bearnaise that used to make me all anxious and spazzy - especially if I was serving it to company. But, I've learned a few little tricks over the years that have taken all of the anxiety out of it.

Tip #1 Keep the pan covered tightly after removing it from the heat. Just before serving, preheat a burner to low (or turn on a very low flame, if you have a gas stove). Once the burner is ready, remove the lid, place the pan on the heat and begin whisking rapidly. If the sauce looks like it's about to separate, add a tiny amount (1/2 tsp) of very hot tap water and keep whisking. Repeat adding the tiny bit of hot water until the sauce is smooth and creamy.

Tip #2 As soon as the sauce is done, pour it into a thermos. This should keep it warm for about 30 minutes, without it separating.

Tip #3 When all else fails, give your guests a fresh (and very large) glass of wine, quietly dump out the separated sauce and start all over again. It helps to have a spare shallot already minced, some extra tarragon that's already chopped and a couple of sticks of butter already cut into pieces. It really only takes a few minutes to make and if your guests are within sight of the stove, they'll be pretty impressed that you're just whipping up an uber fancy gourmet sauce, right in front of them!


The Sauteed Garlic Green Beans

In case you'd like to duplicate this meal exactly, I included the link to the recipe for the potatoes just prior to the filet instructions and here's a quick explanation of how I prepare the beans. I swear I could make these in my sleep, because they just happen to be one of my family's favorite vegetable sides. :)

These beans couldn't be more simple. They are washed, trimmed and blanched for 2 - 3 minutes in a large pot of liberally salted water, brought up just barely to a boil. They're removed from the pot with a large slotted spoon or strainer and immediately shocked in a large bowl filled with ice and water, in order to stop the cooking process. (This part can be done ahead and the blanched and shocked beans set aside at room temperature until you're ready to finish cooking them)

When the rest of the meal is just about ready, I place a heavy non-stick pan over medium-high heat, add a tablespoon or two of butter and 1 large clove of garlic that's been finely minced. (If you aren't a garlic fan, you can substitute about a tablespoon of finely minced shallots instead) The garlic is sauteed for just a minute, then I add the drained beans that have been patted dry with some clean paper towels to the pan and season them with 1 to 1 & 1/2 teaspoons of kosher or fine sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. I then saute them for roughly 4 minutes, or until they are heated all the way through and are just barely tender, stirring frequently. Serve them immediately with your meat and potatoes.

Enjoy!

Mary



Don't Forget To Follow Me On Social Media! I Post Blog Updates, Ideas For Kitchen "How To's", Restaurant Recommendations And Reviews And Always Lots Of Photos!




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